3 Weeks in Puerto Rico, this is what I have learned...

Okay, so we have been in Puerto Rico for three weeks now, and there are a number of things I have learned.  These may be helpful for people who are on their way here  in the future.  In no particular order:

1)  It is true, drivers here are absolutely horrible.  It isn't because they don't know the traffic laws, they just don't follow them because the police do not really enforce the laws.  As a good comparison, if you can get onto Fort Buchanan, just watch how careful drivers are because the police on Fort Buchanan actually enforce the laws.  So it isn't that they are bad drivers, they are just lawless drivers.  For example, they make up their own left hand turn lane, never use their blinkers, will cut you off with the slightest margin possible, and they will run red lights.

2) This is trivial, but I have yet to pump gas at a gas station where 1) you can pay at the pump using your credit card, and 2), find a pump that has the little switch that locks the pump handle in place while the gas is pumped so you don't have to hold the handle the whole time.  Weird, but it seems like they purposely took the locking mechanism off.

3) The police here generally have blue and green lights instead of red and blue.  And, weirdly enough many of the police drive around with their lights flashing as a method of 'deterrence' rather than actually enforcing the laws.  The downside to seeing the police, and other emergency vehicles driving around with their lights on all the time is that nobody takes them seriously like we would on the mainland USA, meaning people will not move to the side of the road for them...even ambulances. 

4) I had a really horrible experience renting a condo online.  It wasn't what was advertised, and it was an expensive mistake.  If you can avoid using ANY of the online booking sites, then do so.  If you can, try to rent from someone you know, or through a trusted recommendation.  I am aware that could be very difficult for people moving here without knowing anyone. 

5) I am actually surprised in a good way that many businesses do accept credit cards.  I have only had to pay with cash a couple times. 

6) If you want to buy a house, the 5 year property tax exemption only applies if you buy a new house (which we ended up doing).  Even so, the property taxes (as has been mentioned many times on this site) are excitingly low, especially if you come from a place where you were paying $5,000+ per year in property taxes.

7) There are no Chipotle restaurants!  But the rumor is they will be coming soon.  :)

8) There are not Target shopping centers (my wife was upset about that), but there is a rental car agency that literally stole Target's name and symbol...which I heard was one of the legal battles the Target shopping center is fighting before they consider coming to Puerto Rico.  Of course the massive increase in taxes that is coming on July 1st doesn't help matters much either.

9) If you hear the term PHP, it means public housing project.  They are basically the projects, and they were strategically built in locations near nicer neighborhoods with the idea that the nicer neighborhoods would elevate the value and safety of the PHPs.  How naive. 

10) Customer service is pretty good in the touristy areas, but not so good elsewhere. 

11) If you want to purchase organic foods and gluten free foods, it is difficult to find.  You can find some things at Costco, but the best place we have found so far is a grocery store called Fresh Mart.  There are several Fresh Marts around the San Juan area and one in Caguas.  If anyone out there knows of a better place, please let me know. 

12) I got my Puerto Rico driver's license yesterday,and I felt like I paid a bribe.  You are required to have a doctor sign off that you are fit to drive.  Silly me thought the doctor would at least give you a eye exam, check your blood pressure, etc., the only thing he did was ask my my height, weight, and if I wear glasses.  Then I had to pay him $26.  What a scam.

13) If you do a search for Ikea in Puerto Rico, you will see that there are three of them I think, two of which are in the San Juan metro area.  My wife was excited, but when we went to both of them, they ARE NOT what you would think they would be.  They are not massive warehouses that you can shop in and buy things.  They are little showrooms that you can order things, that is all.  There is not buying things, there is no food court, there is nothing of the sort.

These are just my observations so far, they could change as time goes on.  Hope this helps someone out there.

Regards,

Tyler

In three months you'll be driving like a PuertoRican.
you will not find a pay at the pump gas station anywhere.
Relax and enjoy.

Thank you for sharing your observations many of which we notice, too.  Welcome to island life ;)

Like Dorothy said in the Wizard of Oz. you are not in Kansas anymore.  Where else can you purchase rum at a gas station,  champagne at Walgreens, get french fries when you order Chinese food or celebrate 19 annual holidays?  Think of PR as an alternative reality.

Hi Tyler,
Great observations!!  Regarding your #1 & #2 points, if you are able to get access to Fort B, you can pay at the pump with your credit card (I believe it may be the only one in PR), and yes, the military police are VERY strict when it comes to enforcing traffic laws.  We do most of our shopping at the commissary and exchange - no sales tax there.  :)

Just like Sugarbird said - in no time at all you'll feel very comfortable with the driving.  It's actually quite entertaining to observe what goes on driving around the SJ metro area.  I've become pretty good at predicting who will cut me off in traffic!!

Hi Taylor (hct48),

The secret with the driving issue is to chill, don't let it upset you, otherwise you will go into road rage and get ulcers. Just go with the flow.

When I visit PR, I don't notice the bad driving, but then again I have driven all over the US, Europe, Mexico, Venezuela, Canada and Puerto Rico. I don't even take notice.

Here in MA, on the turnpike, traffic most times moves along at 85 while the speed limit is 65. But on the left lane, there is always somebody using cruise control at 65, which forms a big line behind the guy, so people then pass on the right because they can't pass on the left. When the guy on cruise control sees a car too close he steps on the break and all that follow have to step HARD on theirs. It is very stressful and tends to make you an aggressive driver. Unfortunately they don't allow you to mount machine guns on the front of the car like the 007 cars. Otherwise the left lane would be clear of those guys using cruise control on the left lane.

LOL, Rey!

Schuttzie wrote:

LOL, Rey!


Everybody is so serious in this blog, I try to add something a little funny from time to time.

How I drive in Puerto Rico depends on where I am driving since I live in a city and the country I inhabit two fairly distinct worlds. When I travel on highway 2 or any major highway I feel like I am on the mainland with all the familiar sighting of chain stores and fast food and I follow the standard rules. In the country there are no rules and no police so it is not necessary to follow any rules just be aware of iguanas, chickens, horses, dogs, rocks, etc.  It is very much like mainland  50's. The two most important things that I need to be prepared for as I enter town is  that I have a current 'Marbeta' sticker and that my seat belt is on.

Thanks for the ideas.

Here are some more. Maybe you and others here already know or wonder about these.

1)  In reply to this comment, "It is true, drivers here are absolutely horrible....For example, they make up their own left hand turn lane, never use their blinkers, will cut you off with the slightest margin possible, and they will run red lights."

Honestly, HOW people THINK is reflected in their driving (and with any human behavior). This includes how language is spoken. Several Spanish words are all clumped together into one big word and spoken fast with one quick breath. This appears, at least to me, a way to create an efficient short cut. Pausing or stopping in motion seems like it would cause such thinkers to have a stroke  :huh:  (I often wonder if the physical running and rushing and dashing about is about trying to keep a cool breeze on the body, and/or to get more quickly out of sun, and/or get indoors more quickly and get away from the Saharan Dusts, and mosquitoes.)



2) In reply to "Weird, but it seems like they purposely took the locking mechanism [on the handle gas pump] off." 

I actually like it that the locking mechanisms on the handled gas pumps are removed. Personally, I am paying more attention while adding gas into my truck's tank, like not going over the amount of money I had in mind to pay in the first place.  It also means that I'll less likely need to go the gas station clerk and say, "Sorry. I over-pumped and I don't have the extra money to pay for it."



3) In reply to this comment, "The police here generally have blue and green lights instead of red and blue.  And, weirdly enough many of the police drive around with their lights flashing as a method of 'deterrence' rather than actually enforcing the laws.  The downside to seeing the police, and other emergency vehicles driving around with their lights on all the time is that nobody takes them seriously like we would on the mainland USA, meaning people will not move to the side of the road for them...even ambulances." 

Having witnessed all of these behaviors on a regular basis, I now like it that the police and ambulance drivers leave their vehicle lights on. It's like they are letting us know they are around, if we need them just when we see them. To be sure it can seem like 'nobody takes them seriously' but there are many instances where I have seen citizen drivers who do.   


 
11) In reply to "If you want to purchase organic foods and gluten free foods, it is difficult to find.  You can find some things at Costco, but the best place we have found so far is a grocery store called Fresh Mart.  There are several Fresh Marts around the San Juan area and one in Caguas.  If anyone out there knows of a better place, please let me know."

Edwards Family Food CoOp in Rincon has organic and gluten-free foods too. 



12) In reply to, "I got my Puerto Rico driver's license yesterday,and I felt like I paid a bribe.  You are required to have a doctor sign off that you are fit to drive.  Silly me thought the doctor would at least give you a eye exam, check your blood pressure, etc., the only thing he did was ask my my height, weight, and if I wear glasses.  Then I had to pay him $26.  What a scam." 

The physician was just observing to see if you had the basics, and that they were in good enough working order. That's all. 



13) In reply to "If you do a search for Ikea in Puerto Rico, you will see that there are three of them I think, two of which are in the San Juan metro area.  My wife was excited, but when we went to both of them, they ARE NOT what you would think they would be.  They are not massive warehouses that you can shop in and buy things.  They are little showrooms that you can order things, that is all.  There is not buying things, there is no food court, there is nothing of the sort."

This is a small geographic island area that has less space to hold and store Stuff, indefinitely.
The use of space is used efficiently, and thrifty or economically.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

DeborahMarchant wrote:

It also means that I'll less likely need to go the gas station clerk and say, "Sorry. I over-pumped and I don't have the extra money to pay for it."


I've never been in a gas station here on the island where you can start pumping and pay when you're done. The only way I know is going in and pay. Then when pumping the pump stops at the amount you paid.
The other way,if you want to fill up, is leaving your driver's license at the attendant, fill up, pay and get your license back.

with regard to the new sales tax... they don't tax for food, do they? In any sales tax state I've been in, they've never taxed for necessities. If they do tax for food, isn't that illegal; to tax someone for a TV, is understandable, but for sustenance?

All,

As far as the driving is concerned, it took me about 2 weeks to get over my road rage...now I just accept it, because like I was telling my co-worker the other day, I'm never going to change the entire Island's driving behavior, I just need to become a very defensive driver. 

As far as the new sales and use tax, we have purchased food at restaurants and at grocery stores since July 1st, and we were charged the new 11.5% at the restaurants, but not at the grocery store.  To me, this is just common sense, but does the government here really think they are going to capture more tax income by raising the sales tax so sharply?  I mean, for those who have access to tax-free shopping at Fort Buchanan, they will start buying more there than on the open economy.  And those who don't have access to Fort Buchanan, as well as those who do, will just increase the number of purchases they make from Amazon and other online vendors that ship to PR.  I am just waiting for the hammer to fall, where the government negotiates with Amazon to start charging the new 11.5% sales tax.

By the way, here is another thing we noticed over the past week.  My wife had a doctor's appointment and she was prescribed some medications.  We went to two different pharmacies that were not chain pharmacies like Walgreens, CVS or Costco.  The first one told her to wait in the store while they filled her prescription, and that it would take about 20 minutes.  That is totally fine, but after nearly an hour she got frustrated and just left, but not before the pharmacist offered to sell her some pain medications 'under the table'.  Now, we fully realize there was probably something lost in translation, and the pharmacist could have been trying to say something else.  Who knows, but it was definitely weird.  At the next pharmacy in the little plaza near Urb. Garden Hills, they told her the same thing, that she had to wait for her medications.  Again, after nearly an hour, she just left without her prescription.  After those two experiences, she was pretty upset and second guessing why we even took the transfer to Puerto Rico.  The next day my co-workers uniformly advised that the best place to go to get prescriptions filled is at one of the chain pharmacies, like CVS, Walgreens or Costco.  So we did.  We went to CVS and they let her drop it off and come back.  It was just as simple and easy as in Michigan.  I'm not saying all non chain pharmacies are poorly run, I am just saying we had two really bad experiences in non chain pharmacies and one awesome experience at CVS.  So to avoid any future possible problems, we will only be using CVS, Walgreens or other chain pharmacies.

Regards,

Tyler

Thank you for the heads up, Tyler!

Maybe the pharmacy experience is indicative of a potentially growing underground economy.

Mrkpytn wrote:

Maybe the pharmacy experience is indicative of a potentially growing underground economy.


I could be wrong, but due to additional taxation and continued hight unemployment, it is likely that the underground economy will continue to grow. The drug industry is likely to gain more followers also.

They are a lot of people that have given up on getting a job and do not have the ability to emigrate.
Just my opinion.

One idea .... People in better financial shape, should consider forming investment groups and create local businesses, would be good for the unemployment and for the investors. if several people put their head together they can come up with profitable ideas and risk just a few thousand dollars each to start the business, each would be a shareholder in the business.
As an example ... if 250 people from this block would put 5,000, you would have funds amounting to $1,250,000. Enough to start more than one small business. If employees were 1/2 of expenses, that will mean that about 33 people can be put to work at 15,000 a year and if it is a good business idea, the money invested can grow.

@hct408: What's the story behind your profile pic?

I'm happy to hear that nothing has changed about driving in Puerto Rico since we left there over a decade ago... :D   It was a wonderful experience living there overall!

There are three kinds of PR drivers:  Those who drive as if it's their first day ever on the road, those who drive more or less normally, and those who drive like crazy people on drugs.  And the average PR driver can switch from any of those three states to another in seconds.

NomadLawyer wrote:

@hct408: What's the story behind your profile pic?


Besides being creepy? :|

Yeah, that about sums it up.  What city are you in? NatuCentro is a good store for gluten-free and organic products.  Not produce, but milk, frozen goods, and dry goods. Also, Rincon and Aguadilla have great farmer's markets.

Welcome by the way!
-Laura
***PolarRico.com

Hi Tyler,
About your comment about the Target company here: I've heard it's true that there have been negotiations between the Target stores from the mainland and the company here, but I don't think the PR Target stole the name or sign. They've been in business here a long time, and if you decide to call your company "Target", then a bulls-eye icon is a pretty obvious choice for a symbol. In fact, if you google both companies' history, it appears they both started to grow in the 1970s - back then Target wasn't the giant that it is today.

As far as organic and "health" foods go, I also shop at FreshMart and find them a good source, but sometimes you can find the same items for less money in supermarkets like Econo and SuperMax.

Good luck with your adventures!

I have been contemplating moving to Puerto Rico. I find your experience is rather a  enlightening for what I was expecting. I don't have any contacts down there, so it would be difficult for me to find a condo, as you stated.   I was going to get a  realtor as I tried in the past it is rather difficult. If you don't mind me asking, did you decide to have a house built  in San Juan or  out of the city limits?   I'm glad you put that on the blog because everything I researched it sounded great but you know advertising.! So thank you very much for that. If you can help me with any other advice suggestions I would appreciate it. I'm a 56-year-old disabled veteran, and I was going to come down there with just me and my dog.

debraarose wrote:

I have been contemplating moving to Puerto Rico. I find your experience is rather a  enlightening for what I was expecting. I don't have any contacts down there, so it would be difficult for me to find a condo, as you stated.   I was going to get a  realtor as I tried in the past it is rather difficult. If you don't mind me asking, did you decide to have a house built  in San Juan or  out of the city limits?   I'm glad you put that on the blog because everything I researched it sounded great but you know advertising.! So thank you very much for that. If you can help me with any other advice suggestions I would appreciate it. I'm a 56-year-old disabled veteran, and I was going to come down there with just me and my dog.


Not sure why you are having difficulty, try this link. It is set for Condado, change the location to the area you want to see more. http://www.zillow.com/homes/condado,-puerto-rico_rb/

51 yr old disabled veteran here... I've been here going on 10 yrs. VA is top notch here! You can go on clasificadosonline.com if you don't read Spanish, use Google Chrome browser, as it has an easy translation feature.

OsageArcher wrote:

I'm happy to hear that nothing has changed about driving in Puerto Rico since we left there over a decade ago... :D   It was a wonderful experience living there overall!

There are three kinds of PR drivers:  Those who drive as if it's their first day ever on the road, those who drive more or less normally, and those who drive like crazy people on drugs.  And the average PR driver can switch from any of those three states to another in seconds.


Specially in the holidays after a "paranda" and lots to drink.

I find the driving discussion very interesting.  I lived in PR for 20 years.  What happens over time is that you tend to adapt to the driving conditions -- its not that they don't have driving rules, its that their rules are different.  The more time you spend in PR, the more the driving becomes normal and the more you also use those rules (e.g. use the breakdown lane, pass on the right, etc.).  I found that when I moved back to the States, the driving here was strange.  it was too uniform.  In traffic I would see an empty breakdown lane and think how far ahead I could get if I used it and what a waste of lane space it was if it wasn't used.  In regards to many of the other issues, living in PR certainly takes patience and in order to survive you need to go with the flow and realize you can't change anything.  If not you will either be driven to drinking or develop an ulcer or both.  There is nothing you can do if there is a 20 minute wait in a checkout line at the supermarket or a 3 hour wait in the doctor's office.  Bring a book, people watch and enjoy life and the positive things PR does offer.  There are many things I miss about living in PR.

Welcome to the discussion and the forum, johnbmaryk.  Yes, you need patiencience, haha!

Well said!  We aren't in Kansas anymore. When in Rome....

A lot of folks on the mainland reading this forum, I hope we expats are helping them decide. Your comment on not getting a condo online is excellent advice.  :)

The driving is aggressive and unlawful by many on the island. If they enforced the laws, they wouldn't be in such bad economic crisis and maybe the dangerous drivers would learn respect.  With the no fault insurance for accidents up to  $4000, and no tickets issued, it's doubtful things will ever change.

Those few that end up with a ticket wait to pay the tickets until their marbete needs be renewed once a year or they repeat the special break that gives them a 65% discount on their tickets if they pay now. 

Some just drive with an expired marbete and sometimes they drive with out a license.

A lot of cars are over 10 years old, some 20 years old so if their car is damaged it just time for another car.

My pickup truck is only 22 years, almost 23. :)

That's nothing. I have socks that are older.

With humidity, salt air and the caves like potholes is hard to believe cars last that long

I intend to drive it at least another 10 years. :D

http://foryourpics.com/images/2016/12/20/20130831_163702.md.jpg

My 1994 F150.

Sweet, I do not see rust from the photo and no damage.

It's in a pretty good shape and I'm trying to keep it that way. :)

They don't make them that good anymore!! Nice looking truck!

Nice truck, I had one like that too years ago.   ;)