Phrae is where to experience REAL Thailand

I have lived in the mountains of Phrae for close to three years now.   Several people have told me in blogs that Phrae is too remote, my house/resort/farm is grossly overbuilt for the area, and that most tourists don't come to Phrae.  Yes, yes, and yes; and I would not change a thing!

I agree with all those points, and let me tell you why.  I can reach my home/resort/farm in 30 minutes of driving up winding mountain back topped roads.  On a normal trip up to the mountain I am waved at by no less than 10 people.  All the kids who see me, my wife, or my two kids yell "Hello Farang!" or "Ban Farang" and wave their hands.  I also have to stop almost every trip for a farmer crossing the road with his herd of Thai cows, or a herd of Kwai.  If I choose to stop at the local store for a Chang, Hong Tong, or even an occasional bag of Lao, I am never told it's a Holiday, or it's the wrong time to sell this.  I am just greeted by the lady at the store, asked about the wife or kids, and chit chat for a few minutes.  At times, as I am driving by, the store owner waves me down to tell me that someone was asking about Ban Farang or something else relating to our families life.  Sometimes I am stopped to be told "The kids were driving a little fast yesterday", or "I saw a girl on the back of your son's bike.  Does he have a girl friend?"

When I get home, I relax on my Sala, enjoy a cold beer while gazing at the mountains that surround me, and wave or say hi to farmers as they return home from their fields.  Some farangs may worry about being so far in the mountains, or about their safety here or about crime.  Well to give you an idea, a few years ago, I purchased a pick-up truck for farm duties.  It has sat in my parking lot, unlocked, with the keys hanging in the ignition for over two years now.  When we leave to go to Bangkok, or out of town, that truck still sits there, with everyone in the village knowing the keys are in it, unbothered until we return.  If I am occasionally in Phrae after dark, I will always get a call from one or more people from the village asking if we are out of town, or something is wrong,; all because, the lights are off at Ban Farang.  We have several ladies from the village who, several times each week, bring pumpkins, fish paste, cooked bamboo, or other items they just want to share.  They don't want money, or things in return, they are just stopping by to say hello!

We have no gates, or high walls on our property. In over three years we have never had anything ever stolen from inside, outside, or around our property.  The locals are great people who love farangs.  Local kids on field trips, or local VIP's always stop to say hi, and get their pictures taken at Ban Farang. 

We did have one encounter with the Police though! The only way I knew he was a police officer was that he had his gun on, and showed ID.  Yes, there are fat Thai Police, and they don't always wear uniforms.  He had hear that new people had bought the place, and he wanted to stop by say hello, and give us his cell phone if we ever needed him.  Oh, and of course, he wanted a picture with the farang family in front of Ban Farang.

To answer the posts about the house being overbuilt.  Your damn right it is overbuilt!  My house/resort/farm is not just overbuilt, it is larger than any other house in the sub-district.  It dominates the hillside and village.  You can go to anyone within a 20 km radius of the house and ask where is Ban Farang, and you will be pointed there.  Even when my family and I are shopping in Phrae it is not at all uncommon to hear kids whisper "Ban Farang" to their parents.  Sure maybe the place is reminiscent of the middle-age castles overlooking the village below, but I love it.  I love the high profile!

I have spent most of my life working very hard.  If I was still in the United States, I would be in a small house in suburbia, have a house payment, and be driving an older car.  Just waiting for my turn to die.  If I had settled like many others in Bangkok or Chaing Mai, I would be in some little gated community, hiding behind high walls, guards, and high gates.  I would know very few of my Thai neighbors, would eat farang food, socialize with farangs, and try to understand what is so great about Thailand anyway. 

I don't want to be one of hundreds of other little ducks in a very, very big pond, I want to be the only duck in a very little pond. 

I love living in Phrae, and even though I have to sell my house/resort/farm in the mountains, (the web at nakham, which is a dot com),I will live in Phrae the rest of my life.  I would not trade Phrae for anywhere, else on earth. 

If you want to experience real authentic Thailand, and learn the wonders of real Thai people, you can't do it hanging out with other farangs in Bangkok, Chaing Mai, Pattaya, or some other big city.  Cities which long ago had its, and its peoples culture, bastardized and sold out in the pursuit of the all mighty dollar. 

If you want to really see what is so special about Thailand, and see why it's the land of smiles, then come to Phrae.  You will find that, yes, it is remote, but remote in a very special and magical way.

Quack, Quack!

Kevin, your post is absolutely fascinating.  Thank you for contributing your experiences.  Please tell me, were you able to purchase your property?  I thought non-Thai people were restricted from purchasing property in Thailand?  And might I ask what do you do to earn your living in that beautiful part of the country?

Your experiences remind me of my childhood growing up on a small Idaho farm.  Thank you for the wonderful reminiscing :)

A great post for those of us a couple years out from being able to move to Thailand.  After visiting HuaHin and Phuket I know that I, also, didn't want to end up in a neighborhood full of the people I am leaving behind. 

I am married to a Thai citizen living in the US and we are 2 years away from being able to make the move. 

I would love to see a few pictures of your resort/home/farm.  If it is still for sale, we may have a lot to talk about.

Mike

yhanks sounds what im looking for Im a nurse that likes to raise sheep. anything for me to do in you beautiful country

Yes, Phrae is a good place to live. There are many places in Thailand just like it. You just need to know where to go.

My wife and I have some land in Surat. You have to cross 11 creeks to get to the place and it's nestled in the valley between some large hills with our rubber trees. In a few years I'll retire there and I can't wait. Beautiful, peaceful place in the jungle, away from noise.

http://bit.ly/Xprn6o

http://www.anamericaninbangkok.com/uploads/1/1/5/4/11541996/3920689.jpg?453

Good on you.  I cannot see the attraction of coming to live in a beautiful country with beautiful Thai people, and wonderful Thai food, if all you want to do is mix with other farangs.
I always try to avoid other farangs if I see them coming :-)
Graeme

Nice post, really reassuring for me as I am moving to Phrae tomorrow although I will be living somewhere near to the City Centre to teach at a local school. Can someone please recommend :

a good gym in the area?
accommodation priced at around 3.500 baht per month?

Also, I see that there are two waterfalls at the local national park. Can you swim in these or is the fall to powerful?

Cheers  :cool:

Kevin, whereabouts in Phrae do you reside.? My wife was raised in Phrae.

Hi,
    Your life and location sounds interesting.     I have somehow fallen for a Thai girl from Phrae who works occasionally in Chiang Mai.   I want to see if I could live with her in Phrae but the town seems so isolated.   How much to build/buy a house?  Can I come to see you next time I am visiting Chiang Mai/Phrae?   Thanks for your feedback.

Best regards,

Alf