Costa Rica reality vs fantasy?

Hello Marianne and welcome on board Expat.com!

Looking to ''hear'' from you again soon

Regards
Kenjee
Expat.com Team

Hi Kenjee,

Thanks for your message. I will be in Heredia until Dec.31 or Jan. 1. Would you be available  to  get together for a coffee or a drink and some chat time?

@ marianne817 > This is just to inform you that Kenjee is a member of the Expat.com team and he is not in Costa Rica.

Thanks for that info.

Marianne

Hi Marianne, looking at Costa Rica is somewhat like the story of the 5 blind men describing an elephant. One was feeling the trunk, one the leg, one the belly, etc. and all described it differently.

There are indeed many gringos living in Costa Rica who live in gated communities and many gringos (and Ticos) with bars on their windows. I will not lie: theft is generally a problem in Costa Rica and that's why you see bars on windows.

That said I personally know many Americans who live in home without bars, many who drive themselves around and many who do not live in gated communities nor hang out with only other Americans. It's natural for gringos to want to be around gringos but it's also natural to want to make new friends among the Ticos in your new home country and many do, and this is highly advisable to do if you are going to live permanently in Costa Rica. In fact learning the language and making Tico friends is essential in my opinion, to being happy living in Costa Rica.

Yes  Costa Rica is getting increasingly expensive but unless you are renting a new home from a gringo or otherwise don't look around for the best deal, you will find rent cheaper in  Costa Rica than in most major U.S. cities, health care is cheaper and veges and fruit are cheaper, and so on. I personally know a couple who are living on $1k /month after building their own home so they don't have to pay rent. And if you look around online you'll find other examples of people living on $1000-1500 a month in Costa Rica.

it depends on if you want to go to restaurants all the time, have a.c. and a pool, have lousy insulation in your home so all your a.c. escapes, drive a lot (gas is expensive), buy lots of imported or packaged foods, etc etc. If you live frugally - and no, don't buy at Auto Mercado! - then you can live in  Costa Rica cheaper than in most U.S. cities.

By the way you'll find more of the same on the Pacific Coast - more expensive, more gringos in gated communities etc.

Costa Rica lifestyle and cost are relative.

samramon wrote:

Hi Marianne, looking at Costa Rica is somewhat like the story of the 5 blind men describing an elephant. One was feeling the trunk, one the leg, one the belly, etc. and all described it differently.,,

Excellent posting Sam, very well stated.

I can assure you this goes for almost any country in the Americas. Learning and using the local language is utmost importance for various reasons, not the least of which is being able to make friends more easily. It could even save your life one day in a medical emergency; and it will improve your day-to-day living significantly.

I'm a "gringo" who has been living in Brazil for 13 years now, in 5 different states. I have never lived in a gated community, and rarely anywhere with bars on the windows. I learned the language and spoke it fluently before I arrived here and that has served me very well over the years. I have far more Brazilian friends than expat friends because I have not isolated myself within the expat community here.

Another point I'd like to make is that without exception anywhere in the Americas, if you are open and friendly, treat the locals with respect, that is exactly what you are going to get back from them too.

Happy New Year to All / Feliz Año Nuevo para Todos / Feliz Ano Novo a Todos

Cheers,
James     Expat-blog Experts Team

Living part time here, the best way to your keep your home and its contents secure when you are absent, is too have security bars, high walls, have someone living in it or for it to be located  in a 'gated community' which can mean armed guard at a gate or a just gate to keep horses in.

Being 'open and friendly, treat(ing) the locals with respect', is not going to protect you from the bad elements who are not your 'nice neighbors'... so precautions must be taken.

Living here on $1000 is dependent on location but possible if you own a home and don't run a vehicle, and have a 'safety net' for the 'unexpected' expenses that will crop up.
If there is a spouse, it may mean additional funds are available, that haven't been included in the monthly budget of a pensionado

Hi my name is Gene and I,m looking to spend a year in Costa Rica and who knows, maybe the rest of my life.  I,m only in my forties but I worked a job where I could draw a small pension after 20 some odd years, and thats exactly what I did. I live in Boston and live off of 1825 monthly net;barely.  I,d like to rent something down there for 4 or 500 monthly.  Walking distance to a beach and a civalized area, prefably near other Americans would be key. I wonder if u or anyone can give me some helpful info. Anything would be greatly apreciated. Warm wishes and much love from the good ol USA.

cupacoffee wrote:

Living part time here, the best way to your keep your home and its contents secure when you are absent, is too have security bars, high walls, have someone living in it or for it to be located  in a 'gated community' which can mean armed guard at a gate or a just gate to keep horses in.

Being 'open and friendly, treat(ing) the locals with respect', is not going to protect you from the bad elements who are not your 'nice neighbors'... so precautions must be taken

Well cupacoffee, nobody is suggesting that one shouldn't take precautions, in Costa Rica, in Brazil or for that matter in England and it appears that you completely missed the entire thrust of my comments.

First off, if you think for one second that the crime rate in Costa Rica is anywhere near as bad as it is in Brazil, best think again. So I am speaking from experience gained over several years in a crime ridden country.

Treating one's neighbors with respect, in fact, goes a very long way to protecting you from the "bad elements" because your neighbors are probably your first and best line of defense, especially the nosey neighbors. If you're liked by those who live around you then they tend to watch out for you even on this side of the Atlantic. Who better to keep an eye on your home when you're not around than a neighbor who considers you as a friend, rather than a loud, ostentatious and stand-offish outsider, which sadly far too many expats really are nowadays.  At least that's been my personal experience in this 'war zone' called Brazil.

Of course we all know that there is no crime in England, houses aren't broken into by the "bad elements" and all of your belongings carted off. You don't have loud and obnoxious youths hanging about (seems I recall a particularly pejorative British epithet CHAVS) where they're not wanted, drugs aren't used, so there is no need to rob people to support one's habit on the other side of the Atlantic.

It's not US vs. THEM... the whole idea is for everybody to try and get along with each other, and that means adapting.

It has been my experience from living in and traveling around developing countries that too often expats move in and bring with them a sense of entitlement and superiority that just doesn't mesh with the local culture. When one learns about the local culture, customs, traditions, language and tries to fit into that society rather than isolate themselves from it, they tend to do much better there than those who don't.

Surprisingly, there are actually some people who move to other countries to enjoy the many other benefits that it has to offer, not just the lower cost of living that they couldn't hope to achieve back home. They come to enjoy the climate, the cultural differences, the more relaxed lifestyle, things considerably less tangible than money and high-end toys.

Hello to all - and especially those of you have sent messages,

Thank you all for your comments and opinions. So much of what you have written applies to living anywhere, I believe - speaking the language; living in local neighborhoods, not segregated expat communities; shopping at local vendors etc. I lived and worked  in Italy for seven years,  and lived exactly that  way, so I am quite tuned in to those benefits.

As I believe I mentioned previously, I am seldom in hotels, but rather rooms, or rented studio apartments in the "hoods" because I want exactly the every day experiences of local living. My trip to the AutoMercado, however, was with my Costa Rican host homeowner, who took me there not because I'm American, but because that's where she does all her grocery shopping. Go figure.

But in my conversations with CR locals they repeatedly tell me that their cost of living for everything has increased dramatically with the influx of foreigners. I haven't yet been to Panama, but I can see the difference in CR costs vs costs in Guatemala and Nicaragua. I found Belize to be expensive, even though their national economy is not high.

At the Central Market in Heredia (certainly not foreigner-level fancy) I saw fish, chicken, and fruits that were the same price as in a chain grocery store in Philadelphia! The lack of posted prices at almost all vendors was really off-putting because we all know there are two prices - the gringo price and the "real" local price. If I need to buy 15 items it's a time-consuming struggle to have to bargain for every one. I know a CR wife who won't let her American husband do the shopping even though he speaks excellent Spanish because he still won't get the same price that she does.

So yes, I understand that CR living can be less than in the US, and I understand that the crime rate can be less (but let's be sure to compare city size to city size, not US city to CR village/town), and I love that there is no army here, that CR is a democracy, and that as of last week the latest Transparency International survey of federal government honesty vs corruption put CR at the top of Central America countries for honesty (at a ranking of 47 out of the world number of 175 countries studied), but behind other Latin countries like Puerto Rico at 31st place, and Chile and Uruguay tied for 21st place.)

However,in my opinion and experience as an on-again-off-again expat, I think that no matter how well one speaks the language, is respectful of and engages with locals, and tries to live "in" the culture,there will always be some kind of perceived difference of "otherness," accompanied by some kind of different treatment. In Italy, even though I am 100% Italian-American, had an Italian last name, and spoke excellent Italian - good enough to work in international sales - I was aware of those times when the American part of Italian-American came into play.

So  in considering CR for a part-time relocation, I still have an open mind. But also a realistic one. And I'm still looking for the right spot that says "Yes, this is the place."

Marianne

Hi Gene,

Sorry that I can't help you with suggestions. I've only been in CR for three weeks, and not near the beach - although I am going to the Pacific Coast this coming Sunday. I'm sure someone on the blog site will be able to point you in the right direction.

One thought: Beach towns are always expensive around the world. So if money is an issue, you might want to consider near to a beach town but not in one.

Best of luck in your search. Please share your findings.

Marianne

Gene, renting good furnished accommodations at the beach will likely be higher than $600 as will many other things. The rent charged may or may not include utilities and electricity costs tend to be high, especially if you use AC.
Being under 55 you will have a higher healthcare premium if you apply for legal residency

cupacoffee wrote:

Living part time here, the best way to your keep your home and its contents secure when you are absent, is too have security bars, high walls, have someone living in it or for it to be located  in a 'gated community' which can mean armed guard at a gate or a just gate to keep horses in.

Being 'open and friendly, treat(ing) the locals with respect', is not going to protect you from the bad elements who are not your 'nice neighbors'... so precautions must be taken.

Living here on $1000 is dependent on location but possible if you own a home and don't run a vehicle, and have a 'safety net' for the 'unexpected' expenses that will crop up.
If there is a spouse, it may mean additional funds are available, that haven't been included in the monthly budget of a pensionado

I agree with everyone that crime is rampant - particularly burglary - but let's balance that by saying violent crime is very rare (though on the increase, and yes, it does happen).

I agree that if you want to be safer from break ins, install bars, have a security dog, lights, alarms, whatever.

All that said, I also know many people who do not employ any of these things and they've either only been broken in to once in 20 years or not at all. One person I know who got broken into, the robbers took only sheets, pillows, utensils, pots and pans etc.  - stuff a poor immigrant probably stole to eek out their living. is it right? No. But the victim was very happy they didn't take more valuable things that were all around the home.

By the way that person was in a gated community where they had 24 hour guard service. Several homes were broken into over a several month period. They finally decided it was an inside job - the guard must have been working with the robbers.

"Being open and friendly" doesn't prevent robbery. No. But it gives you a higher chance that a neighbor might stop it or help you figure out who did it. And it  might lead a local thief to strike someone else instead. To me being nice and friendly is not only just the best way to be, but also the best way to enjoy living in Costa Rica, and yes it does in some cases help prevent burglary. I know someone who everyone liked and he was never broken into whereas neighbors no one liked were burgled.

So no, there are no guarantees you won't get burgled in Costa Rica but it's not a lock that you will be, either. Some areas are higher in crime than others. Some have worse neighbors. Some have more poor Nicaraguan or other uneducated immigrants nearby who are more likely to rob you,

I personally won't live with bars on my windows. I will however have a gun and a sign that says I will use it, a light/alarm system, and I will be nice to my neighbors and community.

geneboy wrote:

Hi my name is Gene and I,m looking to spend a year in Costa Rica and who knows, maybe the rest of my life.  I,m only in my forties but I worked a job where I could draw a small pension after 20 some odd years, and thats exactly what I did. I live in Boston and live off of 1825 monthly net;barely.  I,d like to rent something down there for 4 or 500 monthly.  Walking distance to a beach and a civalized area, prefably near other Americans would be key. I wonder if u or anyone can give me some helpful info. Anything would be greatly apreciated. Warm wishes and much love from the good ol USA.

Gene, you can totally live on $1825 net - you can live like a king on that. I know a couple who live on $1k total, and they live well though they pay no rent. They have a car, internet, phones etc but seldom go out to drink or eat, though they do make local excursions here and there.

Best bet is to just go to Costa Rica and find a beach you think you'll like (Montezuma?) (check the guide books) and then start asking people if they know a place for rent. I did this years ago and found one place for $150/mo and one for $200/month each of which I spent 6 months in, at 2 different beaches. No, those prices are'nt around any more. But you might look into house sitting or pet sitting if you have references, and just asking around for a rental can yield cheaper results than looking online or in English newspapers/ web sites..

James wrote:

[edited for brevity]

It has been my experience from living in and traveling around developing countries that too often expats move in and bring with them a sense of entitlement and superiority that just doesn't mesh with the local culture. When one learns about the local culture, customs, traditions, language and tries to fit into that society rather than isolate themselves from it, they tend to do much better there than those who don't.

Surprisingly, there are actually some people who move to other countries to enjoy the many other benefits that it has to offer, not just the lower cost of living that they couldn't hope to achieve back home. They come to enjoy the climate, the cultural differences, the more relaxed lifestyle, things considerably less tangible than money and high-end toys.

THIS says it all imho.

James wrote:

If you're liked by those who live around you then they tend to watch out for you even on this side of the Atlantic. Who better to keep an eye on your home when you're not around than a neighbor who considers you as a friend, rather than a loud, ostentatious and stand-offish outsider, which sadly far too many expats really are nowadays.

Funny story regarding this issue which my Spanish instructor just relayed to me. They're in Ecuador, but same point...

In the interest of keeping it brief, let's just say that her husband experienced a medical emergency. My instructor told her son to run to his uncle's house on the next block to get help. Well, he got there, but they have a security gate with an intercom, which he wasn't answering. Because of the situation, her son jumped the iron gate to get inside. Well, immediately upon seeing this all the neighbors on the street start screaming, "LADRON....LADRON!!!!" (thief/burglar). Of course once he found the uncle and came back outside, everyone calmed down and apologized, having recognized him. But yes, being a "good neighbor" can make a difference.

Sounds like the block I live on in Center City Philadelphia. In June or July we block off the street and have a pot-luck dinner. On Halloween we take our candy outside and hand it out while the adults are having appetizers and beer/wine and mingling on the sidewalk. At T'giving and Christmas there is always an open house. We water each others' flowers/plants, take  in each others' packages and mail, and I personally have the keys to four houses in case of emergency. You wouldn' think it's possible in the middle of a big city, but we make it happen. Everybody on the block knows everybody else and we always say hello. It's 1950s living in the 21st century.

geneboy wrote:

Hi my name is Gene and I,m looking to spend a year in Costa Rica and who knows, maybe the rest of my life.  I,m only in my forties but I worked a job where I could draw a small pension after 20 some odd years, and thats exactly what I did. I live in Boston and live off of 1825 monthly net;barely.  I,d like to rent something down there for 4 or 500 monthly.  Walking distance to a beach and a civalized area, prefably near other Americans would be key. I wonder if u or anyone can give me some helpful info. Anything would be greatly apreciated. Warm wishes and much love from the good ol USA.

Gene - Totally doable down here.  $1,825 will go MUCH further than it does in Boston. Also, if you spend a certain amount of time here each year, you can avoid your US tax burdens and health care costs from what my tax preparer tells me.  I think it is 330 days each year.

I have several connections down at the beaches near Jaco if you want to live close to the shore.  Remember, it is VERY hot down there and A/C will probably be in your future.

seacoastbill wrote:

Gene - Totally doable down here.  $1,825 will go MUCH further than it does in Boston. Also, if you spend a certain amount of time here each year, you can avoid your US tax burdens and health care costs from what my tax preparer tells me.  I think it is 330 days each year.

I have several connections down at the beaches near Jaco if you want to live close to the shore.  Remember, it is VERY hot down there and A/C will probably be in your future.

Avoid U.S. tax burdens?
I'm listening if you have any wisdom on that.
The IRS tends to have their hands in everything and even income you make wtihin Costa Rica, it is taxed, as far as I know.

Well I can,t  come down till I sort out my stuff. Store furniture, car;stuff like that so it would,nt be for 6 months anyway. I think I,m gonna have a hard time though.I was going to either come w/ a 90 day tourist visa and renew it every 90 days by extension,or taking a day trip across the border,to Panama, but I heard u can,t  do that anymore. If I were to apply for residency, I would have to show a noterized document,that I,ve never been arrested. 25 yrs. ago as a young guy I was caught w/ a lousy 40 dol. wrth of coke. So even though I have,nt  done any type of drugs in over 15 yrs., I guess that rules me out. Along with most countries that I would have liked to settle in. SUCK SUCK.  Anyway if u hear of any other way, or loophole, I,d apreciate any info on the subject. Or message me at  [email protected]

You do not just renew a 90 day visitor's visa, you actually must leave the country and re-enter at that 90 day point.
Be sure you have the required money in your pocket when re-entering, some officials want to make sure you have cash to support your visit.  Apply for status.... I think you better study more.  Once you secure status you must pay CAJA for 12 months of the year, not just when you are in the country, and you should also check the premium.  If you are American I'm sure the premium will be acceptable to you.  I think you'd better come down here for a couple of weeks to see if this place is your bag, it sounds like you still need educating.

Excellent advice, Ed. That lack  of "feet on the ground" in the country is a major part  of why relocating folks turn around and go back home after six months. I met a woman last week who landed in CR for the first time ready to  buy a business and relocate with her 10-year old based on strictly online research. Cash in hand, one school visit, all will be completed in 20 days. No experience living in CR, Central America, or anywhere out of her northern home country. Not a good plan, in my estimation - which is why I started this conversation in the first place. Reality vs fantasy.

I wonder if the woman you met, was aware that she can't, legally, perform the necessary tasks in the business she just purchased...

She's buying a B&B.  I know someone else who bought a small hotel with no problem. Isn't that an investment category that provides jobs, doesn't take any away from locals?

No, but she still can't 'work' in it, but more than that, if under 55 she may end up with a whopper of a CAJA premium...and likely find out that the cost of her 'staff' is more than she expected.

I don't think she cares about the cost because she's 50 and is able to retire "comfortably." A high energy person who will have a business because she needs the activity, not the money. Definite Type A, which is what I question. When you're used to controlling everything it's a shock in a Latin  country when so much is out of your control regardless of your preparations.

Thank you for your informative post. I have been disgruntled living on the states for a long time. It gets worse every minute. I want to join an ex-pat community both for financial reasons and I want to be warm!

Hello.  I usually don't post,  but I don't want you to be misled.  Somehow there is a misconception that Costa Rica is very inexpensive.   I thought the same thing.  I lived there for 6 years and it wiped us out.  We were also retired with a great financial cushion behind us. 

The groceries are double what you would pay in the states.  I am from CALIFORNIA. it is considered expensive.   Everything was much less in California.  If you live in a typical tico home, your rent may be less but groceries, utilities and household expenses are very high.  We lived in an American style home and also a tico home.  They are very different.  I'm not saying it was bad, but there is a lot of getting use to.  We visited 4 times before we moved and we were still shocked once actually living there.  Living and visiting are completely different.  Every expat I have ever spoken with although loved the beauty of Costa Rica has been dissatisfied with the cost of living. Many have relocated to other beautiful less expensive places. I listened to people I didn't know before I moved there and they all promised it was great and the cost of living was wonderful, they lied.  Try it out for 6 months first.  You may love it.  But it's nothing like actually living there.  Please be cautious. 

I'm not being a pessimist, but realistic.  I wouldn't want you to go with grandiose ideas just to struggle and be disappointed.  I wish someone had at least informed me of the truth.  Answer to your question...fantasy.

cochisthechief.....That was the most informative factual post,one can read,if they are planning to move to Costa Rica.The fact is,it is revolving door here.In my case,I left Costa Rica to work in the U.S.Americans were always so gracious to me.They were always very interested where I from and I more than happy to share about the tropical country,not too many had heard about,during the1970's.Now that I am back living in the country of my birth,there is no way in hell,I can mention about a working life in the U.S. or any North American style pension that I have,with my own Ticos.

I appreciate your honesty and kindness. I have heard from others also. I will explore other options.

Thank you for your honesty.

sylythya wrote:

Thank you for your informative post. I have been disgruntled living on the states for a long time. It gets worse every minute. I want to join an ex-pat community both for financial reasons and I want to be warm!

Why don't you move to Florida? It is warm....and free. I've been here for almost 6 months. Now, I am going to sell my new house, which I have purchased while being in Canada (mistake), rent for a while and then decide if I need to stay here at all. All depends on the events in Canada. Come, rent, feel and then decide otherwise you may regret.

Henry, did you feel that some responses from forum members, including mine, couldn't be 'true' as you had good experiences on your initial trip to CR?

Did you think that we were making false statements, and were just trying to 'burst your balloon?'

Sorry to read that you are going to sell your new home, and hope it sells quickly.

Henrych wrote:

Now, I am going to sell my new house, which I have purchased while being in Canada (mistake), rent for a while and then decide if I need to stay here at all. All depends on the events in Canada. Come, rent, feel and then decide otherwise you may regret.

Damn, you bought in Puerto Jimenez? It's a cute but very rustic, somewhat isolated area of Costa Rica. Much like Pavones where I want to buy.

These super remote locations take a special kind of person to be able to fit in.

I lived in South Florida for 60 years. It's very expensive and lots of crime. Most businesses are corrupt and there is no consumer protection. Thanks for the offer and good luck.

surfdog12 wrote:

Henrych wrote:

Now, I am going to sell my new house, which I have purchased while being in Canada (mistake), rent for a while and then decide if I need to stay here at all. All depends on the events in Canada. Come, rent, feel and then decide otherwise you may regret.

Damn, you bought in Puerto Jimenez? It's a cute but very rustic, somewhat isolated area of Costa Rica. Much like Pavones where I want to buy.

These super remote locations take a special kind of person to be able to fit in.

I do love this remote location, maybe not remote enough for me. I also like people here, although there are quite a few crooks. I am selling my new house because I was deceived into buying it, overpaid, and don't like this particular spot where it is located. However now, being more informed with respect to prices and locations I am coming to the conclusion that Puerto Jimenez area is a right place, so I'll be looking for the spot close to the ocean to build the house. This is the current plan, which might change depending on various factors. CR has pros and cons, all depends of the individual's preferences.

kohlerias wrote:

Henry, did you feel that some responses from forum members, including mine, couldn't be 'true' as you had good experiences on your initial trip to CR?

Did you think that we were making false statements, and were just trying to 'burst your balloon?'

Sorry to read that you are going to sell your new home, and hope it sells quickly.

I think that some people are trying to depict a rosy picture whole some are more negative. This country with this ridiculous "pura vida" thing has both, all depends on your preferences. I am trying to weigh and understand what prevails. Today, at this moment, I am more positive than otherwise. I just need more time to see if my "pura vida" will work here.

Henrych wrote:

Today, at this moment, I am more positive than otherwise. I just need more time to see if my "pura vida" will work here.

Knowledge is power. Costa Rica is a tourist destination so everything is initially painted from that perspective. Buying and living there is a whole different reality.

As much as I know more now than ever before, I still want a home there that I own. And a car. I hate paying these car rental companies so much each year. Yet, how to have a new car that does not get striped while your gone is difficult to sort. Compound living, where you have others behind the same fenced in area makes sense but is still not 100% secure. Full time residency can solve a lot of problems but some of us also like where we live now AND appreciate Costa Rica. Vacation Homes seem like even more complicity added to the equation, but there has to be a viable solution in there somewhere...