Security in Iraqi Kurdistan on the Decline

This might be a very important time to accept an opportunity to be a part of the Kurdistan community at large. I am not excited about confronting IS directly, and in person; however, I firmly believe in the Kurds, and if I have something to contribute to Kurdistan, than I am ready to do so. On that note, I thought I was on my way to Erbil to teach elementary grade level learners earlier this fall. I am going to keep looking for an opportunity to travel to Kurdistan. If anyone has ideas, please feel free to share!!!

Steve

I've noticed that the schools are pretty bad at recruiting, that the jobs are there, but only available through direct contact with the school. Also the pay is surprisingly not bad. The xpat teachers at the elementary thru high schools make as much as esl teachers at the universities, altho not always with housing. I wish I could tell you how to easily contact them, but I have no idea apart from physically visiting them. Maybe someone has a list they could share with you. Housing is increasingly becoming a problem tho, make sure you sort that out in advance. Rents in Suli have doubled due to the influx of middle class Syrian refugees. There is a boom in construction, but it'll take time to catch up and I'm not sure rent will ever go back down. Plan on needing 500-700 a month for a decent place in Erbil or Suli.

Thanks! Your input is particularly helpful. I have heard from one of the school's principals, and I will be forwarding my professional information. You are in Suli, right? Do you actually feel uncomfortable at this time? I am the type of guy who loves adventure and learning all about different cultures -- it's been my motivation throughout my life, in fact. To be honest, my only concerning thought comes to me in my sleep/dream state. What if one or more of the locals with whom I develop a friendship really is 'aligned' with IS? Sounds like a nightmare, of sorts, but that is the only concern that enters my thinking at all. Otherwise, I am genuinely excited about an opportunity to spend time in Kurdistan, hopefully teaching.

Your input about housing is especially useful, too. Thanks for your help!

It is not plausible that you would befriend someone aligned with Daesh (IS). You probably won't even interact with many Sunni Arabs here, much less religiously zealous ones.

What is very plausible, and in fact very likely if you work with any refugees is that you will befriend people who are sympathetic to or even have ties to the PKK, the party of Abdullah Ocalan, the militant Kurdish activist imprisoned for life in Turkey.

The truth is that this region is a big mess and getting uglier by the day. They just held a rally for Kobani here in Suli and there were a huge number of PKK supporters waving the party flag and pictures of Ocalan. There were also members of the Kurdish communist party about, all mixed in with the YPG supporters who the US is providing military assistance to, to the chagrin of Turkey.

Kirkuk is a timebomb waiting to go off which could end up closely resembling the civil war in Bosnia which pitted neighborhood against neighborhood in a densely populated city. The refugees are putting a serious strain between the Kurds and Sunni's as the Peshmerga feel they are losing control and letting Sunni's who are secret Daesh agents into the city, so they are interrogating, harassing, and in some cases disappearing Sunni's.

One of the tactics of Daesh has been efforts to destabilize and sow fear and so the attacks are becoming more widespread across the country, whether the area has tactical benefit or not. A car bomb went off twenty minutes away in the outskirts of Sulimaniyah about three weeks ago. I've received 3 warnings from the US embassy to avoid gatherings in the last month. Americans are advised not to travel here.

A more frightening event has been the firing upon and arrest of 10 Peshmerga south of Kirkuk by Shia militia, which more and more is being controlled from Tehran, rather than Baghdad. Sulaymaniya was the entry point of the Iranian special forces which are active in Iraq. If the KRG should ever attempt to sever ties with Iran, Sulaymaniyah would get very ugly very quickly. That's not a likely scenario, but so far the situation has been nothing but unlikely scenarios. No one thought that IS would be controlling Anbar province right now, but they are and still knocking at Baghdad's door.

Anyone who tells you they know what is going to happen is a fool. Sulaymaniyah could continue to the be the eye of the storm, and could even experience a renaissance and economic boom from the flight of capital and talent to here. Or the storm could shift and the city could be a nightmare with no safe escape for xpats. Come at your peril. I personally am optimistic and staying for now.

I truly appreciate your honest assessment from the viewpoint of an ex-pat actually living in the region. I am contemplating many options, seriously, and I still have a genuinely strong feeling about coming to Erbil. It appears that I may be onto an opportunity to teach young Kurdish learners, after all -- and, that really excites me! I am scheduling for an interview via Skype for the British International School. I saw the news about the Peshmerga being fired upon & arrested by Iraqi Shi'a. It was unsettling, to say the least. I am not afraid of the various factions of Kurds -- political and/or militant. I know that the US has considered certain factions as terrorists; but, I feel emotionally 'aligned' with the plight for an independent Kurdistan. Maybe that is actually a part of my motivation to come and have some small part -- teaching. Doesn't it seem like the Kurds (Peshmerga) are in a struggle for more than just their own right to independence or sovereignty? Rather, they are the regional vanguard of freedom, justice, and so forth. I understand that I am thinking simplistically, possibly even wrongly; and, certainly 'blindly' since I am not there and my source of accurate information is limited. I have to tell you, again, that I appreciate your input more than you can imagine. Thanks!!!
Steve

It's hard not to fall for the romantic notion of greater Kurdistan, until you think about the horrible cost of such a civil war in Turkey. Think of the American civil war and whether the south should have attempted to secede and then ask yourself if the Kurds in Turkey should repeat that mistake.

It's also easy to over-sympathize with the plight of the Kurds and thus be blind to the pervasive racism that is developing against the Arabs here. The Peshmerga might very well end up ethnically cleansing Kirkuk once the ethnic tensions there get hot enuff, and you already know ISIS plans to fan those flames. It's their modus operandi.

Also remember that the PUK and KDP fought a horrible bloody war for a decade that isn't even fully resolved yet. They look united now because they're still fighting common enemies, namely ISIS and Baghdad. But if ISIS was quenched and Iraqi Kurdistan declared independence, the smoldering party tensions would burst back into full flame.

It's ugly every way you look at it and there is no 'good' side to pick, yet you'll inevitably end up picking sides depending on the alignment of your employer, colleagues and friends.  Independent Kurdistan is a terrifying serpent, still in it's shell, more ambitious than Israel, with a big axe to grind with all it's neighbors. It's a male dominated, slightly backward society that still embraces the cult of the virgin and has a lingering problem with female circumcision. The law is underdeveloped and the powers that be are quite corrupt. I suggest you put your romantic notions aside and stay as apolitical as possible, focusing on the educational needs of the children.

edit:...a serpent with an axe to grind, ugh what a terrible mixed metaphor...but I made the point I hope

Bob,

Thanks, again! I may have missed an introduction earlier, but I am very curious about you, personally. I am wondering if you are British, American, or otherwise 'western', for starters. You are obviously wise and knowledgable on many levels, so I am interested in your background as well as your reason for choosing to be in northern Iraq (especially staying there at this time). What lured you to the region & what is helping you to decide to remain there?

I have one other Expat.com buddy, Hassan, from Pakistan. He is much more 'forceful' or assertive about convincing me to stay put in the USA. He is in Bagdad, which is bound to be significantly different from Erbil or Sully. He reminded me about kidnapping westerners for money or worse. His other claims or warnings include bombings/explosions, daily. Like you, he mentions Mosul in his messages. Is is under IS control, still, then? And, is it very close to Erbil? I am going to get back to the maps to study.

From your posting, I need to study the geopolitical history as well. Of course, you are right about the focus being on teaching kids! Bottom line.

Steve

Mosul is very much under Daesh control, it's the capital of Sunnistan and probably will be for at least the next 30 years. The proximity of Erbil isn't so much of an issue as much as Erbil being the central locus of the international effort to fight Daesh. This fact, combined with the influx of refugees to Erbil, makes it inherently more dangerous that Sulaymaniya. Suli is more remote, more easily defended, has a smaller Arab population, has a smaller xpatriate population, has fewer political targets and fewer economic targets.

If you must heed your hearts desire to come to Iraqi Kurdistan, then I really urge you to try to find something in Suli. The people are more open and generous; the culture is more sophisticated; the climate is nicer; and the geopolitical situation is safer for westerners. This is the reason I am staying. I love Suli. If I worked in Erbil, I would have fled with the first wave of western expatriates to do so. I openly admit that I am a victim of wishful thinking in that I am ignoring the embassy warnings because I wish it will continue to be so tranquil here.

As an English Guy living in Erbil for 3 years, i have seen no problems, there is a good life to be had here, and having spent time in Suly, i prefer Erbil, as its more western, and a good expat community, and alwats something going on in one of Bars..

Dont trust everything you hear, TV makes it sound like a war zone as well, i feel safer here on a night out than in Manchester.

Also as i work with MOI here, i know more than most of the sucurity Situation, and not worried at all

That is very helpful, indeed, especially as I am enthusiastically and happily considering a position as a teacher at one of the schools in Erbil.

wow just seen my spelling on the post, and see now some of my keys need to be pressed hard, time for a new lap top i think..

My honest opinion is, no problem here, im not looking at moving, i have some people here now from the states and UK for a security job, and they are even down grading there initial color from Red Zone to Amber, now they have been here for a week, and I still think Amber is too high, but they have to please their insurance companies.

Again, your input is very helpful to me. I have had a keen interest in the region because of the Kurds and their history for a very long time. I would have been interested in relocating to Kurdistan years ago, after I learned about Saddam Hussein's horrific mistreatment of the community, but I really wasn't aware that it was possible. Maybe it wasn't possible for westerners to move to Erbil or Sully until now. In any case, I believe I have identified an exciting position in Erbil that I will thoroughly enjoy immensely. Luckily for me, the school is in Erbil serving youth and their families with distinction -- coin great!

How long have you been in the area? What sort of things have you found to do to keep you busy when you are off work? Have you found it easy and comfortable to socialize with both expats and local residents?

There is a good expat community and they tend to gather in the Bars, as you do, there are great mountains around here and lakes, and in the snow its just as good, always on a weekend someone is having a BBQ, good food places here, and some good bars, both expat and local, safe to walk everywhere, even after a few beers

No question Erbil has a more opportunity for westerners to socialize. We have bars here, but the patrons are mostly Kurdish men. I'm not much of a drinker or social person, so it doesn't bother me much. I tend to hang out with Syrian refugees.

I can't argue against his assessment of the situation in Erbil as it has been. But the future could go either direction. If you look at the pattern on this map, Erbil will be the forefront of the conflict. ISIS activity map . Look at how the trail between Baiji and Mosul has a big gap. As they try to cement that path along the river border with Erbil province they will come into conflict with security forces from Erbil. Their counter-attack would then take place in Erbil proper, just as they've done in other areas of conflict. The UK is typically more conservative in their security alerts than the US, so when they do raise the status, it's worth noting. I wouldn't dismiss it casually.

I do not frequent bars, as a rule, just occasionally. I would definitely want to develop friendships with people who are from the region, especially Kurdish folks, to be honest. I would be more than a little disappointed in myself, and the situation, if I relocated to Erbil or Suli and my new relationships were exclusively western expats. I have already considered other places of interest, many that would encourage building friendships with fellow Americans as well as British, Canadian, Aussies, and other westerners. I am interested in broadening my array of experiences and friendships. Part of my motivation, surely.

The map is very helpful, of course. I noticed that Suli was not indicated. Intentional? Did I miss it? It is northeast, close to Iran, right? As you taught me in an earlier entry, Suli is remote & somewhat out of the way….

This site has become a very helpful source of information for me -- so glad that I 'found' it!!!

Thank you! It appears that there are significant differences between the two cities - Erbil and Suli. I am learning so much from the blog, much more than I expected possible. The personal touch by way of sharing perspectives is particularly appreciated and helpful. At this point, I only have the great lead at one school serving youth and families in Erbil. I really do not know of a way to check Suli for prospects, other than this site. I will also say that the likely proposal from my established contact is one that I would cherish and welcome in any location, and it would be difficult to 'decline' for professional reasons. Moreover, as a man who desires to serve in learning communities, this could be dubbed 'perfect'! We'll see after tomorrow ….

British International School of Suli was looking for a Geography teacher for years 7 to 11, candidate must be native or near native English speaker, posted on Oct 27.

Contact Info
Phone    0770 478 6000
Email    [email protected]
Website    http://www.bis-sul.co.uk

Is Erbil safe now in 2015?

I had to travel there two weeks ago with some colleagues and we were stopped and not permitted entrance into the city because my colleagues were arabs and there had been a recent bombing attack.

No matter when you ask this question tho, people will always tell you that it's safe. Statistically it's safer than Detroit or Washington D.C.  But there is some small element of risk.  There is a war going on here.

You aré correct everyone seremos to hace a different sport but Thank you for your quick response.

Hi, my husband is currently in sulaymaniah and is asking me to come and stay with him and his family whilst he is awaiting his iraqi passport being made so he can leave kurdistan. Im abit unsure if i should go and should just wait instead to meet him in turkey which was our plan but he has problems with his passport and we are unsure when he will get it.  I am british would it be ok for me to go and stay for a while? And if something was to happen how would i get any help?

Prolly nothing will happen.

But there is no way out other than the airport. You don't want to head west, cuz Kirkuk is unstable or south cuz Baghdad is stable, and definitely not east, cuz that's Iran. Road to the north is not secure. It's winding, mountainous terrain, through small villages and seedy little towns.

Like I said before, it's safer than the big cities in the US statistically. So join us!

What is the problem with winding mountain roads crossing villages? No, really... I am surprised by your statement.
I have been around a lot on such roads and small villages and I can't see where is the problem. 
May be you have always been in major towns and along main roads in the plains and you have no idea.

No idea of what? My point is that if that road is closed for any reason you are not getting to Erbil, which was part of my bigger point that the only way out of this place in an emergency is the airport. What's your point?

My point is that i can't see why the road to the north is not secure. You mention it's winding, mountainous and goes through villages. This makes it slower to drive, not unsecure. Also, should hostile forces menace to take over the town, no place is safer than the mountains.
Possibly I misread you, but is sounds like if you are scared of mountain roads and small villages!

It is vulnerable to attack and lacks alternative routes. So yes, not secure. Not particularly scared personally because I know this territory is currently controlled by Peshmerga. But daesh attacked 25km southwest of Erbil just last week. This is the kind of thing westerners like to know before they come here. The typical Kurdish response is, "Are you kidding? Of course it's safe. Kurdistan is not like Iraq." But then when events happen they unravel quickly and always catch people by surprise. No one predicted Mosul could ever fall under the control of militants. No one predicted pershmerga could be attacked and arrested by Iranian militia just south of Kirkuk. No one predicted daesh would push  all the way to Baghdad's front door. And no one predicted that an attack would be launched so close to Erbil last week. So no, by a westerner's standards, the roads out of Suly can not be considered secure in event of an emergency. The airport is the escape route.

I am sorry Bob, but you are misinformed.
The attack southwest of Erbil is more or less routine. The area of Gwer-Makhmour is the theater of harsh fightings since past August. Only, this time it was reported by the international press: this is the difference with the past months.
And again I reaffirm that mountains are way much safer than the plains in case of attack. Have a look at the maps. I mean real maps, not Google. There are alternatives.

Totally agree with Bob,
Yes it's not safe here, even though kurdish people are claiming it is.
The way i see it; So far there is not party or even organised militia in this country that can put an end to this war soon.
Unless the US decides to end this, am not seeing this light at the end of this tunnel.
So it's not safe here KRG, and things change in only few hours.
Sully or Erbil can fall the way Mosel did before we know it.

Do you think it's safe for a female?! I'm from UK and thinking bout getting a job out there?

lauranay77 wrote:

Do you think it's safe for a female?! I'm from UK and thinking bout getting a job out there?

Contact your Embassy for up to date security.

Embassies and Consulates always want to stay on the safe side. And rightly so: they will never tell you that a place is secure because they would be subject of harsh criticism if anything happens.
Now think of this: there is hundreds of western expats in Kurdistan, some are families with kids, that do not belong to the overprotected "oil and gas" community. Most, like myself, live in perfectly normal houses or apartments, not in protected, guarded compounds or luxury hotels. We drive our cars or take random taxis, our wifes go around alone. Are hundreds of professional expats crazy and irresponsible? I do not think so....
Francesco

No that's true! Thanks for all your advise !

Hi:

Yes i think its safe, in my 4th year now, and no problem, i actually like the place, itwill all depend on where you live, as to the quality of life, Try to stay i Ainkawa in Erbil, everything in walking distance, and good food places and bars.

"Totally agree with Bob,
Yes it's not safe here, even though kurdish people are claiming it is.
The way i see it; So far there is not party or even organised militia in this country that can put an end to this war soon.
Unless the US decides to end this, am not seeing this light at the end of this tunnel.
So it's not safe here KRG, and things change in only few hours.
Sully or Erbil can fall the way Mosel did before we know it."




Sorry i have to disagree on this, there is no difference here in Kurdistan to many other countries in the Middle East and Africa, and claiming America can step in to solve it,  is another myth, they only make things worse.

The other problem is posts calming its not safe, this stops investment, and in turn security, if people are here working and think its not safe, the its quite easy to step on a plane and leave

lauranay77 wrote:

Do you think it's safe for a female?! I'm from UK and thinking bout getting a job out there?

Re: Security in Iraqi Kurdistan on the Decline

Hi:

Yes i think its safe, in my 4th year now, and no problem, i actually like the place, itwill all depend on where you live, as to the quality of life, Try to stay i Ainkawa in Erbil, everything in walking distance, and good food places and bars.