Thinking Of Moving To PP...Few Questions First Please?

So I'm seriously considering a move to Phnom Penh (it's a toss up between that and Saigon and somewhere in the Phils).

Have been living in Bangkok for the past year but they've tightened up the visa situation so it's time to move on.

I'm a UK citizen, under 30, and have funds from abroad if it matters so I won't be working in Cambodia.

I plan to 'live' there for 3-6 months (or longer if I enjoy it).

I've been a couple of times before. First time didn't rate it but second time after staying down by the river enjoyed it a bit more.

Not 100% sure I'll love it enough to live there yet but I can stay for a month or so first to decide.

Anyway my questions...

1. What's a reasonable monthly budget for someone looking to live fairly central in an OK apartment with aircon and WiFi, eat local food 90% of the time, likes to eat out, drinks / dates / goes out 3-4 nights a week, pays someone to do his laundry and clean his room, spends his days in coffee shops?

In BKK I spent around $1,200 a month max and lived pretty well. I wasn't flashing the cash but not penny pinching either and could generally do what I wanted to do.

My apartment even had a pool, gym, massage, poolside bar and restaurant etc on site but this isn't really necessary.

1a. and what is the typical lease length for apartments?

1b. How easy is it to rent an apartment as a foreigner and what's the process?




2. What would be a good area to live in PP?

I'd like somewhere safe, central, not too pretentious and not too expensive, plenty of shops, restaurants, coffee shops bars etc around.


3. What's the Wifi like in general in PP?

I would be spending the bulk of the day online so would need reasonable Wifi in apartment and coffee shop. I don't do much downloading just browsing mostly.


4. Is it generally pretty safe in PP for someone who's not stupid?

In BKK it feels safe as houses. I was never worried about safety and never had any problems or know any who had any who didn't deserve it.

Could leave laptop and phone on desk in coffee shops, bars, restaurants etc whilst you went to the bathroom without issue and walk around with laptop without fear of being robbed.

I didn't feel unsafe in PP previously but it definitely felt edgier than in BKK and I wasn't so thrilled about walking down dark streets alone at night.



Thanks a lot in advance.

No one can answer any of my questions?

Would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I'm sorry that you have not received any constructive helpful replies. I live in Bangkok my self for the past 2 years and had posted an introduction about my self and a few questions but no responses as such.

Looks like we Bangkok expats are not exactly welcome :))), kidding.

My budget in Bangkok is about 1500$ and for your 1200$ you could very well in PP. I can say that having visited Pp a few times and having met a number of expats.

The Wifi is not bad, in Bangkok it is spectacular, it's cheaper in PP, and if you live i the central areas of the city you will have no problems.

Safety: Bangkok is one of the safest cities in the world. Walking down the street at 4 am along certain areas of Sukhumvit can feel like a walk in the park. It's really quite incredible like that. PP, you will not enjoy the lack of street lights, best to do taxi to taxi point to point at night, walking around according to me is not recommended in most areas.

I would not leave my laptop in coffee shops in PP for sure, Bkk as you know is truly remarkable like that.

Living: Toul Kourk and BKK1 are 2 areas I know of that are expat friendly. of course more inputs wpuld be highly appreciated from PP expats that live in the city, any one reading these posts please do help us, thanks.

I hope my limited knowledge has helped you a little bit, here;s hoping for some more answers from PP expats which will help us, cheers and possibly 2 of us bangkok expats could meet up in PP one day :).

Thanks for the info mate.

My budget in Bangkok is about 1500$ and for your 1200$ you could very well in PP. I can say that having visited Pp a few times and having met a number of expats.


I can spend more I just didn't want to knowing what I got in BKK for my money. :D



Safety: Bangkok is one of the safest cities in the world. Walking down the street at 4 am along certain areas of Sukhumvit can feel like a walk in the park. It's really quite incredible like that. PP, you will not enjoy the lack of street lights, best to do taxi to taxi point to point at night, walking around according to me is not recommended in most areas.


I avoid Sukhumvit if I can. Not on safety grounds just on the fact I don't like it. It's a dump for the most part,

Shame I can't walk around PP safely without worry.



Thanks  for your answers. Really appreciated.  :)

Good luck Scotsman,

I'm moving in November and when I started planning, I had similar questions to yourself. I didn't post them online, I've just sort of followed other topics and conversations and put together some info myself. I think you'll do OK budget wise from what you describe. I think given the time you plan to stay it might be worth looking at a share arrangement or even a guest house? 3 - 6 months isn't a long time. But you could post on the accommodation thread and see what offers you get.
I think if you follow basic safety rules you should be OK. Carrying a laptop or leaving it on a table in a coffee shop probably isn't the safest thing to do?
Im not sure about neighbourhoods. I have accommodation lined up which I think is Toul Kourk.
From what Ive seen from reading a variety of blogs and posts, its quite subjective as to where people would prefer to live (apart from absolute no go areas).
My original plan was to set up in a guest house while I visited the different areas and got a feel for them. But as I said I have accomm organised now.
good luck. I hope it works out. I cant wait to get there and get settled in but I have work commitments here.
Cheers

Dale

lol scotsman, I was just giving Sukhumvit as a reference point. Being a popular road in Bkk, I thought you would be able to get a general idea on safety comparisons :)

Here's hoping we can get more answers to our questions.

You may also want to try the Khmer440 forums for more information.

Cheers

Cheers guys. Yeah on the khmer440 forums too

Hi Scotsman

Lived in PP for the last 4 years, so I'll do my best ...

1. Check the housing posts on here and visit some PP estate agent websites to give you an idea of rental costs. They can vary considerably, depending on the landlord. Wifi is available almost everywhere, including mini marts and coffee shops. You can get a main meal for $4-5 upwards and beer is anything from 50 cents to $2.50, depending on the establishment. The size of your place will decide how much you pay your cleaner, but you will be able to find someone to do your housework and sort your laundry from about $70 a month. Some housekeepers will also pay your bills, arrange your drinking water etc. Ask for recommendations.

1a. 6 months minimum, but a year is more usual. Deposit of 1 or two months' rent in advance.

1b. Easy to rent an apartment - as a newbie, you might want to use an estate agent or a house finder, who will take you around and show you the options. They are paid commission by the landlord, not by you. A proper contract will include a visit to the neighbourhood (sangkat) chief to make your thumbprint.

2. Depends what you want. BKK1 and Tonle Bassac are popular and therefore more expensive. An area full of westerners can also attract burglars. Russian Market area has some good deals. PP is still a relatively small city, and most places are within 15 minutes on a motorbike or tuk tuk. A more Khmer area will have more services such as local coffee shops, laundries, food stalls etc. It's worth checking any potential housing area to look for metal-working shops, motorbike repair places, karaoke clubs and other noisy enterprises. Also see if there are any potential construction sites close by. If you can, visit your new pad early in the morning and at midnight to check the noise levels.

3. Pretty good in most establishments. If you're in an apartment block, they may have a deal signed up with a provider (often more expensive than going directly). If you get to choose your own, check the options and the costs before you buy.

4. PP is reasonably safe if you're sensible. Bag and phone snatching from motos and tuk tuks can happen. Most thefts are opportunistic and not violent. Don't walk home drunk by yourself. Be polite. Be aware. Get a motodop or tuk tuk driver you trust and keep his number. In some places, probably not a good idea to leave your devices on a table while you go to the bathroom. And don't wave your laptop around in the street!

Good luck!

Thanks for the detailed reply. Appreciate it.

What I'm really struggling to understand is why I hear so many people say Cambodia is cheaper than Thailand.

A lot of expats who find Thailand getting more expensive move to Cambodia.

Yet everything seems to be more pricey in PP than in Bangkok.

$5 for a meal compared to $1.50 in Bangkok and it would be incredible.

$70 a month for apartment cleaned and laundry costs compared to $40 in Bangkok.

Apartment costs seem much higher for a lower standard in PP.

Sure beer is cheap but beer isn't expensive in Bangkok either.

Bangkok has obviously spoiled me.

Anyway thanks for the recommendations on areas to stay and safety etc. Good to know.

I still haven't committed to PP yet. I need to make my mind up soon as I plan to leave the UK again in October so flights need to be booked ASAP etc.

Hi, I've been living in the Russian Market area for over two years and it's developed quite a bit in the short time that I've been living here. Well stocked supermarket (Angkor), new restaurants and cafes popping up all the time etc and it's not an expensive part of PP.. up and coming is how I'd describe it. BKK 1 is aimed at expats so it's probably one of the more expensive areas, but there are still bargains to be had. Some people like living over by the riverside... personally I wouldn't. It'd be a bit too much like living on Blackpool High St for me... It really does depend on where you want to live, whether you want to live alone or in shared accommodation, whether you're happy with a functional Cambodian apartment or want a new 'western type' apartment,  and what amenities you're looking for. Check out the Expats in Cambodia Facebook page too and the 'Phnom Penh Housing' group as they're quite active.. I think 6 months is a reasonable time to hope to get a lease, but some people are offering shorter terms (especially those looking for a houseshare where the lease doesn't have long to go). It's very easy to rent somewhere.. you'll usually sign a contract and pay at least a month up front. Do negotiate if you're talking directly to a landlord - especially the rent and for anything that you feel may be missing from the apartment (washing machine, screens on the windows etc). That advice about checking a property in the morning and late at night is good because two of the things that can drive you mad are early morning construction (and this is going on all over PP) and late night dog barking..

You can eat good local food cheaply.. street food (e.g. fried noodles with beef and egg) will cost you about $1.25 and meals in Khmer restaurants can be around $1.50 - $2 upwards.. I've had the good fortune to work with Cambodians for the whole time I've been here which has enabled me to try so many different types of Cambodian food and I just love it. The $5 you were quoted isn't for local food. There's a whole other thing going on with cafes and restaurants aimed mainly at expats and rich Cambodians... whereas a good Cambodian iced coffee will cost you 50 cents on the street, a cappucino can cost up to $3.50 in a coffee shop (Joma, Exotique, Browns etc)

The Wifi is still quite slow in PP unless you want to pay over $100 a month for fibre optic internet. I pay $24 a month for 4-6MB (metfone) which is ok ish, but I've got used to it... You can access Wifi all over the city and some of the cafes have pretty speedy access, but there the ones where you're paying top dollar for your coffee.. (but your aircon is thrown in for free) ;-)

It's generally safe in PP, but there is a lot of poverty, so you just have to be careful and not be flashing your cash and expensive phones etc. There are opportunists who will grab a handbag etc, but it's not really people being mugged.. The advice about tuk tuk drivers and motodop drivers is sound... get a couple of trusted drivers to bring you home late at night and you'll be fine. I certainly wouldn't be leaving any of my possessions on a table whilst I went to the toilet, and you'll see that most properties go into total lock down mode at night with big iron gates and shutters all padlocked and/or guarded. PP has a pretty awful infrastructure, so there are many roads that aren't lit at night (and the roads and pavements aren't pedestrian friendly).

Moving to live (and work and volunteer) in Cambodia is one of the better decisions I've ever made.. There have been times when I've been really skint and have managed to get through the month with a few hundred dollars (on top of my rent etc) and other times when I've been living the highlife. Hard to average out how much I spend, but I reckon you could live the lifestyle you're hoping for for $1000-1200 a month..

Good luck with whatever you choose to do!

great post Sangiec !

Indeed. Great post.

Thanks!

I will look into some of your suggestions.

Quite a few people have mentioned the Russian Market as an area to live now.

It'd be a bit too much like living on Blackpool High St for me


This made me laugh! :D

Also glad to see that you don't have to pay $5 for a local meal. Whilst it is cheap by Western standards I did seem unusually high for SE Asia.

I usually don't make this types of opinionated posts but since I just came back from PP (and will move to Cambodia in the future)  I wanted to say that I find PP to be a terrible place (with some good parts sprinkled in) to live in unless you have serious money and can remove yourself from the annoyances (air pollution, lack of safety, not being able to walk down a street without the obligatory obstacle course, dodging the traffic and overprotective dogs as you do so - no escaping the terrible traffic though if you are in a vehicle).