Azerbaijan is a relatively unknown entity for the wealth-seeking expat because let's get real, we only ever go abroad to make money, pure and simple. For us British expats we're talking tax-free money. So whilst working in Oman back in 2010 I was offered a job in Baku for a global energy corporation. I did some research and my company sent me an overview of life here. Well, what I read and what I saw on the Internet did not prepare me for what was an extremely sharp shock to the system - I mean in terms of Pounds Sterling. Read on . . .
I will cut to the chase. Baku, which is where most onshore expats work and live, is a city of haves, have-nots and rip-off merchants. Sorry if this seems a bit harsh but it's an undeniable fact of life here. On arriving in Azerbaijan, you will most likely be put up in a posh hotel for two weeks. I landed up in the Hyatt. For this blog I shall use the US dollar to illustrate prices. I only ever ate in the Hyatt once. Why? It was just soooooo expensive. A pint of lager in the bar was $10 and the one and only time I ate there was a very basic burger - cost - $19. And it was bloody awful!
Right you will need to find an apartment. And before moving on, I am talking those expats who come here on residential status. I needed a two-bedroom flat because my wife and daughter joined me. Now in Baku its location, location, location. A decent flat in the Fountain Square area of Baku will set you back between $1500 and $2500 a month and even more. Now I am not talking luxury here just a normal abode with lounge, kitchen and bathroom. Yes, there are cheaper apartments but to be honest these would set you back $750 a month but are drab residences situated in the more dreary areas of the city. When you have your apartment we're talking electric, gas and water bills. These are reasonable and about a third of what I pay back in the UK, so one very positive aspect of life here.
Next is transport - you need to get to your office and back in the morning. This will either mean hiring a car or taking taxis. Now, a word of warning, the traffic in Baku is as bad as it gets. Apart from the pollution, many areas of Baku city are like the Wacky Races; reckless, dangerous driving. I was only in the place a week and decided I could never drive in the most congested, lawless and downright dangerous city to drive a motor vehicle anywhere in the world. I hear countless stories of expats almost being run over, and that is putting it mildly. So it's taxis and because you are an expat, you will be ripped off big-time, and I am not joking. But a piece of good news; the authorities have introduced 'London' styled taxis which are metered and very reasonable. Just avoid all the others they will literally take you for a ride!
Shopping - well, again, we're talking expensive. Be prepared to fork out at least $1000 a month for groceries, etc. Again, it depends where you shop. There are supermarkets' scattered around the city but these are nothing more than large convenience stores. I mean, you won't find an ASDA or Sainsburys in Baku! Expect to pay in general twice what you'd pay in the UK. Two simple examples: a tin of Heinz baked beans double the price. A jar of peanut butter treble the price.
Eating out well, the good news here is Baku has an abundance of stylish and not-so-stylish restaurants, cafes and bars. You have the luxury ones such as the Sky Grill in the recently opened Hilton and then you can eat in Finnegans, the Irish bar, where fish and chips come in at $15. But then a colleague of mines decided to go to the Sky Grill for a meal his fillet steak was a whopping $42.00!
Language well, you've got your apartment, done some shopping, paid your utility bills and explored the city in taxis. But with all these aspects of life here, you will need to communicate with the local Azeris. Here, Russian and Azeri are spoken 50 / 50. English? At a guess, based on my 18 months of living here, about 95% of Azeris do not speak the language. This sometimes leads to frustration and confusion. Don't get me wrong, most Azeris I have met are very respectful and deferential of expats. But there are others, unfortunately, who look at you with a certain disdain. The fact is most Azeris where I work have a good idea of our salaries, which are some of the highest for expats anywhere in the world. But I know for a fact I am earning about ten times their salaries and there is a guarded jealousy prevailing. Maybe it is a throwback to Soviet times I don't know.
So, Baku, what are my personal impressions? Firstly, the good bits. Summer weather is beautiful, day in and day out, so that means going to work in a short-sleeved shirt. Utility prices are cheap and also pharmacy prices. If you do decide to rent a car, you will enjoy filling up your petrol tank for as little as $10!! Yes, a great variety of bars, restaurants and cafe bars, fantastic fashion shops and the Boulevard down by the seaside is an utter joy to stroll along on a warm, summer's Saturday afternoon.
The bad bits? Horrendous costs for almost everything. Traffic hell is the only way I can put it. Lack of English language is a huge disadvantage for the expat trying to make a living in Baku. There are many slums in the city, even off the famous Fountain Square, and it will leave you wondering how the local Azeris manage to get by. Power cuts, gas outages and water cuts are an everyday problem in Baku. Yes we have Internet but how many times have I lost the connection?
When it comes to finding work here all I can suggest is to Google it and see what is on offer. Mind you there are NOT many jobs for expats which accounts for the relatively small expat community here.
So, that's it if you do come here, make your own mind up but do your finance calculations before boarding the plane.