Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

kuanyin · 2012-05-09 13:08:20

Azerbaijan is a relatively unknown entity for the wealth-seeking expat because let's get real, we only ever go abroad to make money, pure and simple. For us British expats we're talking tax-free money. So whilst working in Oman back in 2010 I was offered a job in Baku for a global energy corporation. I did some research and my company sent me an overview of life here. Well, what I read and what I saw on the Internet did not prepare me for what was an extremely sharp shock to the system - I mean in terms of Pounds Sterling. Read on . . .

I will cut to the chase. Baku, which is where most onshore expats work and live, is a city of haves, have-nots and rip-off merchants. Sorry if this seems a bit harsh but it's an undeniable fact of life here. On arriving in Azerbaijan, you will most likely be put up in a posh hotel for two weeks. I landed up in the Hyatt. For this blog I shall use the US dollar to illustrate prices. I only ever ate in the Hyatt once. Why? It was just soooooo expensive. A pint of lager in the bar was $10 and the one and only time I ate there was a very basic burger - cost - $19. And it was bloody awful!

Right you will need to find an apartment. And before moving on, I am talking those expats who come here on residential status. I needed a two-bedroom flat because my wife and daughter joined me. Now in Baku its location, location, location. A decent flat in the Fountain Square area of Baku will set you back between $1500 and $2500 a month and even more. Now I am not talking luxury here just a normal abode with lounge, kitchen and bathroom. Yes, there are cheaper apartments but to be honest these would set you back $750 a month but are drab residences situated in the more dreary areas of the city. When you have your apartment we're talking electric, gas and water bills. These are reasonable and about a third of what I pay back in the UK, so one very positive aspect of life here.

Next is transport - you need to get to your office and back in the morning. This will either mean hiring a car or taking taxis. Now, a word of warning, the traffic in Baku is as bad as it gets. Apart from the pollution, many areas of Baku city are like the Wacky Races; reckless, dangerous driving. I was only in the place a week and decided I could never drive in the most congested, lawless and downright dangerous city to drive a motor vehicle anywhere in the world. I hear countless stories of expats almost being run over, and that is putting it mildly. So it's taxis and because you are an expat, you will be ripped off big-time, and I am not joking. But a piece of good news; the authorities have introduced 'London' styled taxis which are metered and very reasonable. Just avoid all the others – they will literally take you for a ride!

Shopping - well, again, we're talking expensive. Be prepared to fork out at least $1000 a month for groceries, etc. Again, it depends where you shop. There are ‘supermarkets’ scattered around the city but these are nothing more than large convenience stores. I mean, you won’t find an ASDA or Sainsburys in Baku! Expect to pay in general twice what you’d pay in the UK. Two simple examples: a tin of Heinz baked beans – double the price. A jar of peanut butter – treble the price.

Eating out – well, the good news here is Baku has an abundance of stylish and not-so-stylish restaurants, cafes and bars. You have the luxury ones such as the Sky Grill in the recently opened Hilton and then you can eat in Finnegans, the Irish bar, where fish and chips come in at $15. But then a colleague of mines decided to go to the Sky Grill for a meal – his fillet steak was a whopping $42.00!

Language – well, you’ve got your apartment, done some shopping, paid your utility bills and explored the city in taxis. But with all these aspects of life here, you will need to communicate with the local Azeris. Here, Russian and Azeri are spoken 50 / 50. English? At a guess, based on my 18 months of living here, about 95% of Azeris do not speak the language. This sometimes leads to frustration and confusion. Don’t get me wrong, most Azeris I have met are very respectful and deferential of expats. But there are others, unfortunately, who look at you with a certain disdain. The fact is most Azeris where I work have a good idea of our salaries, which are some of the highest for expats anywhere in the world. But I know for a fact I am earning about ten times their salaries and there is a guarded jealousy prevailing. Maybe it is a throwback to Soviet times – I don’t know.

So, Baku, what are my personal impressions? Firstly, the good bits. Summer weather is beautiful, day in and day out, so that means going to work in a short-sleeved shirt. Utility prices are cheap and also pharmacy prices. If you do decide to rent a car, you will enjoy filling up your petrol tank for as little as $10!! Yes, a great variety of bars, restaurants and cafe bars, fantastic fashion shops and the Boulevard down by the seaside is an utter joy to stroll along on a warm, summer’s Saturday afternoon.

The bad bits? Horrendous costs for almost everything. Traffic hell is the only way I can put it. Lack of English language is a huge disadvantage for the expat trying to make a living in Baku. There are many slums in the city, even off the famous Fountain Square, and it will leave you wondering how the local Azeris manage to get by. Power cuts, gas outages and water cuts are an everyday problem in Baku. Yes we have Internet but how many times have I lost the connection?

When it comes to finding work here all I can suggest is to Google it and see what is on offer. Mind you there are NOT many jobs for expats which accounts for the relatively small expat community here.

So, that’s it – if you do come here, make your own mind up but do your finance calculations before boarding the plane.

nargin · 2012-05-11 00:08:18

Mister l understand that you love Baki:))))))))

lazyBarrientos · 2012-06-21 10:57:22

--I enjoyed reading this. smile Thank you.

michael87 · 2012-06-26 11:00:05

Hi, shall we become friend?

bluesamber · 2012-07-24 16:26:50

very good imfo as i am travelling first time to Baku this friday

Have sorted out apartment(hopefully)before i arrive

Traffic and drivers cannot be as bad as Cairo Egypt-these guys have to be the worst drivers on the planet next then polish in good old Warsaw!!!

I now have to find the expats bars

regards

Neil

kuanyin · 2012-07-25 14:26:31

Hi Neil,

Yes I hear what you say about Cairo. But downtown Baku is a nightmare . . . as for bars, there's plenty of them. I personally don't go out very often but I am sure when you're settled in you'll be shown around a few.

Good luck,
Ian

bluesamber · 2012-07-30 10:59:37

many thanks for the reply
Neil

chirad · 2012-08-20 16:48:04

thanks man..really good informations..u make me think again ang again before go there..i think is better to stay in morocco

kuanyin · 2012-09-16 09:08:55

Thanks, Nadi, hope it helped. I shall be leaving Azerbaijan at the end of this month and won't be back!

Madhuram · 2012-10-22 13:56:47

Thank you, very useful! All the best in a better places!

albertdom · 2012-11-27 20:57:02

Really good info.
As I'm coming to Baku in 2 weeks, I've been searching to get to know more about the culture and life.
I had some knowledge about cost of living but your blog give us a better ref.
Thank you!
Carlos

Zorik · 2013-03-20 05:29:15

[Moderated: Don't be rude]

raowaleedahmad · 2013-04-29 13:27:35

one bad thing about baku or you can say about azerbijan which is this i am trying since 6 months to have admission there but there is not any website which you would updated and nearly it is impossible for a foreigner to have admission there even in this blog i have asked to many people to help me for getting admission there but all are silent

kuanyin · 2013-04-29 13:37:07

Hi Waleed,

It can be a difficult place to get into the country but, obviously, if you have a job offer, then the employing company will get you your business visa, etc. But one thing is for sure, you cannot just turn up in Baku and look for work. Azerbaijan has a huge unemployment problem and it is difficult for the authorities to find work for their own citizens!!

Hope this helps.

raowaleedahmad · 2013-04-29 14:16:16

but bro i just want to study here not to work here i mean i did Agriculture Engineering From my country now i want to do first Language course and then Master from some reputed university of Azerbaijan i am not seeking for job
and meanwhile there are lot of opportunities of business

Jose.k · 2013-05-06 12:43:33

Very good observation of life in Baku
It's been 15 years that I have moved to the broad.
Each year i decide to move back, to Baku, but when I go there the prices of everything is puts me back.
I just wonder how poor people manages there.
How can be flight to Baku with Azal from London is 385 English pounds, but London to Dubai via Baku with Azal costs you 333 pounds.
And to travel to Azerbaijan if even you are Azeri with foreign passport you have to pay 100 pounds and wait for 2 weeks.
Last time when I was in Baku the item really shocked when I so the price was white plain cheese
Shocking 12 manat which is 15 dollars per kg.
If you ask pot of tea in a café if you ask or not, they would bring bar of mars and some mixed nuts and you have to pay 15 dollars.
Baku is the only place in the world,that McDonald's are posh.
I don't know where these prices comes from. Gas, electric,petrol considerably cheap, wages are small.
The margin of earning for a companies are to hi.

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Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#1 2012-05-09 13:08:20

Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#2 2012-05-11 00:08:18

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#3 2012-06-21 10:57:22

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#4 2012-06-26 11:00:05

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#5 2012-07-24 16:26:50

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#6 2012-07-25 14:26:31

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#7 2012-07-30 10:59:37

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#8 2012-08-20 16:48:04

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#9 2012-09-16 09:08:55

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#10 2012-10-22 13:56:47

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#11 2012-11-27 20:57:02

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#12 2013-03-20 05:29:15

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#13 2013-04-29 13:27:35

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#14 2013-04-29 13:37:07

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#15 2013-04-29 14:16:16

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

#16 2013-05-06 12:43:33

Re: Baku - a City of Extremes for the Expat

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